-
NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any
class, exception first team registered and last year’s Champ. No dark colors
without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a
premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame cars, 6 cylinder maximum.
-
All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24"
x 24", contrasting colors.
--These may not be positioned in such a waay as to strengthen the car.
Official’s decision is final.
-
No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines
allowed.
- No
re-stubbing of frames.
- All bodies
must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
-
NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE
INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver
must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All
vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside
the car.
- All
Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and all goodie bag items at the
completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that
date.
- These are
not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as
preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these
rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION
RULES:
- Drivers
must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until
notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s
door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or
intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a
defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly
you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open
door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may
return in later rounds.
-
Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the
brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause
for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must
make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. You will not be given any warnings; you
will just be timed out.
- You will
be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try
to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- Metal Mayhem is not a team event; team
driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This
includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will
be disqualified.
- All cars
are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must
be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This
protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The
protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is
protesting.
- Any
questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR
BUILDING GUIDELINES FOR METAL MAYHEM:
GENERAL
PREPARATION:
-
All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the
bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer
hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws,
fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear
seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front
seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however,
these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
-
All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding
and the driver’s seat.
- No sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
CAGES
& DOOR BARS:
- You may
use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to
exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post
on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no
exceptions.
- Dash bar
and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than
6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches,
centered in the back seat area. There
must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be
attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must
remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may
add a diagonal bar behind the drivers seat and directly below the seat bar
running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may
add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal.
These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
-
No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
-
All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the
car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage
components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure
with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door
structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO
OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may
add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may nor exceed 5"
in diameter.
- On a
4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a
2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet
metal.
- Halo bars
must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars
may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You
may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
SKID
PLATES:
-
Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the
transmission.
- NO
full-length skid plates.
-
NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK
LIDS:
- Trunk
lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on
hinges.
- You may
fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may
weld 5 on and 5 off 2" x 1/8" strap max.
-
AND -You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8"
all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid.
No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on
the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
-
AND -You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk
lid.
- There
must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be
clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the
stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid
may be V’ed in the center but must be at least 12
inches off trunk body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light
valance must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may
be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may
use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2
front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be
sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you
use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting,
the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may
install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1"
diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate
perimeter of the cut out.
- NO
welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must
have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
-
Hoods must be open at inspection time. Hood springs must be removed.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside
only, 2" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may
smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal.
This includes wagon tailgates
-
If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire
them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers
door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have
netting.
-
You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for
protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER
BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon
tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the
tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5”
pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1
not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must
have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps
running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers
protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to
the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross
connections. No other added metal or
mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No
component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may
use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window
opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station
Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door
window opening.
- The wire
must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior
of the car.
OTHER:
- Body
creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to
create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched
out completely. Trunk lid seams must
be clearly visible and accessible.
- No
doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter
panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM
WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core
support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers
for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal.
They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for
future wire installation.
- Holes may
be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and
transmission lines.
- You may
cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may
have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher
than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
ENGINES:
- Any
engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the
original motor.
- You may
chain the motor, but you must use an existing bolt. Chains may not be higher
than the top of the stock engine mount cup. Chains may not be attached to the
cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may
weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be
attached to the frame rails at any point.
Only allowed for holding engine in
place.
-
No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must
have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No
starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopars are allowed to secure K member in the following
ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to
frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 -
3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR
PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to
the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or
transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact
cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or
connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally
positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. Call ahead!
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and
pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be
connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it
may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner. No
“extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall
only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not
beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the
firewall/cowl in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
-
Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be
used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or
braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers
must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
REAR
ENDS:
You may run 8 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s
frame or body in any way.
- You may
use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may
tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms
must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be
reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end
braces are allowed, but
they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They
may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the
top of the axle tube.
BODY
BOLTS:
- All body
bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core
support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood
and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may
use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These
pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. max per pipe.
- Washers
must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT
weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x
3/16".
- Space
must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not
bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may
add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy
viewing.
- If your
station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2
additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you
decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package
tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons
are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE
ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler
products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill
a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread. Do not weld these to the frame.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator
must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator
supports must remain in the stock location.
- OEM style
radiators only, no home made tube construction radiators.
- You may
not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine
tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be
reasonable!
-
Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must
have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be
covered.
- Fuel
lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel
lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
-
Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric
fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the
steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines
must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires
taller than 30". 4 wheels max per
car. No duals.
- No split
rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with
various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14
inch for mobile home tires. Welds must
be approved by judges on rear tires.
- Valve
stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be
removed.
- Doubled
or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars
must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do
not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection,
ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
-
A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must
be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted
out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be
mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching
is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid
floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or
pop rivet all patches. No components to
include, gas pedal, battery boxes, etc may be welded, you
must bolt only. No part or patch may be
attached to any vertical sheet metal(firewall), all
must be patched or mounted in the
horizontal floorboards only. No
over sized mount plates or boxes. Do not
mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only
frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, top only, no
more than a ½" wide bead.
- Buick,
Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator
support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed.
- The
bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other
frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling
of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even
be inspected and loaded.
- You may
weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear
frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may
notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
-
You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail
to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may
chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any
kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8"
chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not
bolt through hump creating a frame pin, except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may
not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame
shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them
in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance
of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame
shaping that is allowed.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement
bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the
shock mounts. Do not re-enforce the
front or the ends outside the shock mounting area. Bumper re-enforcement may not
be done in anyway to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no
spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers
are interchangeable for all cars. Includes compact and
mid-sized cars.
- You may
weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld the brackets to the frame. You may not weld further than 4 inches
behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on
any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the
radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO EXCEPTIONS
- If you
choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may
weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame.
- You may
not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers
may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers
may be flipped (upside down).
-
Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded
fully.
- All
bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 4” onto the frame
rail
- You may
run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to
the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator.
- You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to
the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It
cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the
maximum length.
- You may
run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan
to help hold the bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this
bolt.
- Bumper
height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the
back and front body mount location.
THE
FOLLOWING SECTION IS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
- You may replace
the aluminum engine cradles with a stock older Ford cradle. It must be in the
stock location with only 12 inches weld max, all other components must be
bolted in with stock size bolts. No added metal, braces or gussets.
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style
cars in 3 following ways only
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal.
2. You may cut only the outside flap and pull the
front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld.
Only re-weld the one flap, do not re-weld any other crushbox
seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member,
since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount
your cross member.
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a
Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and
lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be
attached with max of 3 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No
shortening of trailer arms, no positioning of brackets to strengthen the front
down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails
but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock
location.
THE
PRECEEDING SECTION WAS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- No coil
to leaf conversions.
- Leaf
springs must be in the factory position.
- You may
change coil springs.
-
Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
- You may
not remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may
weld, bolt or chain down your A arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps,
**OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side. All chains, bolts or welds must be
in the middle of the A-arm. Do not weld entire A arm
down, 1” max, nothing may contact the frame rail, all attachments must be made
to spring bucket only. If you are in excess of this rule, you will not run!
- If you
chain your humps, you must leave enough slack for the suspension to work.
- You may
reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie
Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering
wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After
market steering columns allowed.
- Shock
absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck
shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no over sized shocks.
- All
shocks must have a minimum 3/4" hole in the dust cover for inspection
purposes.
- Cars that
place in the money will have the shock cylinder cut open and if a non-stock
shock is discovered, that car will be disqualified and all money won will be
forfeited.
- Air shock
lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf
maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
-
58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger -
3" long side (rear of axle), 2&quoot; short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps
per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp
material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts -
7/16" maximum, stock mounting plattes must be
used. The older Fords are allowed ½” u-bolts as they were stock for those
years.
- No
homemade mounting plates or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No
welding on the spring pack
- No flat
sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct
taping of springs prior to inspection.
MM INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
-
Official’s decisions are final.
- You will
be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car
gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.
- Cars will
be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must
be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the
car in the staging area.
- No
further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their
trailers.
- Do not
come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added
or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding
metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead! Call David Gard
219-746-8643
MM2011 PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
- You may
add 4 strands of wire in 4 locations of your choice prior to the consi,
unlimited wire for feature.
- Leaf
spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the
feature.
- You may
wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No
replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
- After the
heats, consi cars will be re inspected. Feature cars will be impounded.
- You may sedagon your vehicle only
after you have qualified for the feature, wire only, visibility for
inspection must be maintained.
- Upon
impound, digital photographs will be taken of each feature car.
Feature car
repairs will begin at sunrise. Feature cars must be re inspected by 1pm and
then impounded again. No further repairs will be allowed after this point.
LEAF CLASS:
-Leaf class
will use the above rules AND:
- 80's and newer cars only
- If you do not convert to leafs, you
-Any rear end - 8 lugs ok
-5/16" thick, 2.5" wide leaf
-2" stagger front and back. 9 leaf
-5 clamps per side 2x4x1/4" max. 5/1116" bolts max.
-48" minimum spring length, eyelet tto
eyelet.
- NO DOUBLED MAINS, no leafs above the
- If your leafs aare different, contact Daave with specs.
-rear mount - 6X66X1/4" shackle, weldded to or bolted thru the frame
-Front eyelet mount
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum
-Springs MUST have a minimum 2"
-Springs may be mounted above or below
-No allthread sttruts, must have shock abssorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFFFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Leaf class cars are allowed to compete at all of our Fair shows in the
open class.
TRUCKS:
-We will honor the rules in the area that you run.
The following exceptions apply….
-NO fully plated frames, regardless of
-NO doubled sheet metal
-NO cages in the fenders, engine compartmment or rear
bedsides.
-No fully operable 4 wheel drive setups -NNo kickers past the centerline of eitherr axle.
We realize that this might provide a fairly diverse
field, but we do not generate enough truck interest to justify asking you to
build your truck to our specific rules.
Bone
Stock Rules
A. 1. Any year car… No Imperials, no Suicide Lincolns, no hearses
B. Body
1. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
2. No sedagons, no crease enhancement, no sheet metal
shaping, forming or
Folding.. Body to remain completely
stock.
3. Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.
4. Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
5. NO WELDING… NO WELDING
6.. Fasten door, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 4
strands of #9 wire per seam
7. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken, #9
wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing
allowed.
C. Frames
1. NO welding on frames allowed..
2. No suspension modifications allowed. Must remain strictly stock
D. Drive Train
1. No performance parts or engines allowed, stock
only. Engines subject to a $500 claimer, so if you wouldn’t sell your engine
before the derby for $500, don’t bring it.
The only acceptable upgrades are timing chain, headers, basic tune up,
etc... not complete rebuilds.
2. Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded or chained.
3. Stock rear ends only – OEM for that car. Rear end gears may be welded
4. Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed
5. NO engine cradles, slipshafts, protectors of any
kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
6. You may swap engines, ie.. Chevy in a Ford, but must be a stock engine.
E. Driver Compartment
1. 2 bar cage only, dash area, drivers door OR seat bar. No other cage
components allowed, no down pipes.
2. Drivers door must be padded.
3. Gas tank and battery must be moved and secured. Tank
behind the seat,
4. No oil or trans coolers allowed. O.E.
radiator cooling only.
F. Bumpers
1. You may weld on a steel bumper, no welding further than 4 inches from the
back of bumper, single pass only.
2. Shocks may be collapsed and welded, single pass only
3.
Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to
hold on the bumper.
G. NO tire restriction, Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is bumper, engine mount, cage and rearend!
This build should only take 2 days, if you spend more than that you are
overbuilt for this class and will not run!